Housesitting in Japan for 6 months. Sign me up. I was thrilled when a colleague in Tokyo offered me this opportunity.
Tokyo - The Start
I fell in love with Japan in 2000s. And since then have visited almost yearly. My first ‘home’ stay was in a glorious apartment in Tomigaya, Shibuya. Thank you Lesley. I was a five minute walk from Yoyogi Park, 6 minutes to Harajuku, 15 minutes to scramble walk and, if the weather allowed, 50 minutes to heart of Shinjuku.
I continued to stay in Shibuya until it all changed a few years back. The old Donki, many of the cool back street izakayas, love hotel hill, and Bankamura - all gone. Oh and so too is one of the best fabric shops in the world: it was old shop of tiny entrance and 4 storeys crammed like an Aladdin’s cave. Places that would never have online inventories. Replaced by big box international stores - I’m looking at you H&M which replaced my fave Kinokuniya book store.
Today I need laid back Tokyo neighbourhoods. Places with fantastic cemeteries, tiny family-run shops, ‘forgotten’ shrines and temples. Basically where tourists don’t propel giant suitcases down narrow footpaths, or refuse to queue and elbow you to take phone shots or get to something (esp restaurants). Honestly, I’m looking at you Chinese tourists.
So when I was offered a house outside Tokyo - 20 minute train trip to either Osaka and Kyoto - I booked my ticket.
Housesitting History
I am no stranger to staying in someone else’s place. My first house-swapping phase was not a great success. I stopped after a few couples who ‘didn’t think they should tidy when they were on holidays’. I am not of that philosophy - I leave a house as a find it. But more often cleaner. Final straw was a French couple who left balcony doors open and a torrential downpour damaged several shutters. They emailed me, but didn’t mention damage - I came home to $400 repair cost.
Location, Location, Location
So mid-July I am in suburban Japan wondering “what have I done?”
The first shock was location - I love walking, but terrain and weather can change that real quick. And Google map does not show terrain. My house 35 min bus ride from a train station. At the bottom of 200 steps. Going out easy peasy - my coming home after several hours of walking + in the heat of the day = not so much.
I am also a couple of kms from a convenience store - I didn’t think that happened in Japan. But it is a 25 min walk to the closest place - so no egg sandwiches for lunch. Unless I make them.
There are no coffee shops or similar nearby. I love sitting in climate controlled comfort watching the world go by. While I prefer to patronise small owner coffee shops - they tend not to open until 10-ish ie late. (Australians do like to get out n about early). So often it’s one of the Japanese chains that claims me - they have free wi-fi, but I always have enough wifi on my e-sim. Make sure you have an e-sim … see
Lastly, the closest supermarket (like an IGA/corner shop) is 15 minute walk and had some fabulous food - they often have someone outside cooking a special for the day — yummy chargrilled chicken eg. I have to remember not to go overboard and buy too much that I have to carry back.
 |
| “Festival” in supermarket car park. |
Tip
A backpack is essential in Japan - hands free means easier carrying + easy swiping for public transport etc. But get the RIGHT backpack and please be mindful of others. Japanese people often wear them on their chest…brill. I have a scuba material backpack that is uber-light and stretches. Best Target buy ever - I haven’t seen them since I bought this one. For about $10 a year ago.
So I am in the wrong location - and this was brought home to me when I tripped on stairs and buggered by ankle and knee. Japan is not accessibly friendly - though it’s getting better. Just be sure to check when you get to the station and so take your time and get there early if you have a mobility issues (aka buggered knee) or a suitcase.
Steps from House to Bus Stop
Nearly there - watch your step
 |
I love the neighbourhood values - find and share umbrellas
|
Not all houses are created equal
I love the Japanese aesthetic - as long as I don’t have to sleep on a floor for too long. And I have a desk to sit at and type. And that desk is a western table/desk that I can slip a chair under. As an older person I appreciate a high bed - like some people do a high car.
House basics
2-storey or not 2-storey - This depends upon mobility. Warning: steps in houses are not “standard” height or depth. Mine are much higher and very shallow ie my foot doesn’t fit so adopt a sideways gait. Also surprisingly the lights top + bottom aren’t connected so if you put on the step lights downstairs you can’t turn them off upstairs - in this house anyway. So you have to walk up or down in the dark and sometimes that ain’t no fun.
Mail + Parcels. Collection for owner: what happens if signature is needed. Consider, if you sign are you then responsible. You also have to be home to sign-this can screw up your day. And then if you miss them…arrgh. I missed mail twice because I didn’t hear the mail person’s car (electric) OR the intercom which is only audible if in the same room; they do not come to front door but use the intercom which is at the mailbox on the street. This houses haa high hedge and I couldn’t see the mail person on their scooter either.
Other deliveries - I had to get groceries delivered and I had to use Amazon (Prime cAUD5 pm) because of my location. Amazon Japan is very easy to use-translate is pretty good. Though I did need Translate for some items (ie milk). Groceries were delivered same day - you nominate timeframe and they were ALWAYS delivered in that timeframe. The food was fresh - even the fruit and veggies. Ordinary Amazon products are usually delivered often within 24 hours.
If you want to buy a specific product you can order on Amazon Japan once you register and yes they accept foreign credit cards. Delivery to private home, hotel, Amazon locker. Hotel: Always check with hotel first - they will suggest put reservation # and of course use same name. Locker: select locker at checkout (3 days to collect).
Google maps. Not as reliable as used to be.You can download a map BUT not directions. The magic of maps is that sometimes what they show seems much closer in reality and other times it’s much further away. Other factors: walking on a cool day may be entertaining, walking when your feet hurt, it’s scorching hot, you wanna pee, carrying groceries—not so entertaining. Finally - phones run out when you need them the most.
Garbage Collection. My biggest headache. Sometimes I was tending to garbage three mornings a week. If you’ve negotiated the European recycling system then Japan probably won’t phase you.
Basics: garbage is not collected from collection points. NOT at each house. You must leave day of collection and NOT the previous night. Ours is 8am. There different locations for recycling and burnable kitchen waste. Recycling is to be further divided into paper, plastic PET bottles, and cans. Each has to be a transparent bag. And it’s not just a matter of putting into bags - there are specific directions for how to deal with material eg milk carton = rinse them clean, cut them open, flatten them, remove plastic spouts, and dry them before bagging them.
 |
| Garbage Instructions |
In the summer kitchen waste stinks after a couple of hours-hint keep garbage in fridge. This week I have 3 collection days which means three early mornings because I like to get there early. Why? Because the collection bags are transparent and if I’ve done something wrong then it will be obvious. I fear the neighbourhood watching turning up on doorstep with my poorly organised rubbish.
House layout. This house is definitely built for indoor living. Windows don’t open wider than a hand; not that there’s a breeze usually. They are not open plan. Heat rises so upstairs bedrooms are hot - mine reached about 40 during the day. Not all rooms are climate controlled. Air con might be in living room and bedrooms only which is fair. Result: it is so hot that my phone overheats in non-air conditioned rooms.
Steps. There are a variety of steps throughout the house and they all differ in height and width.
- Steps from street to house shallow and wide;
- door opens out fr house = no step into genkan;
- step from genkan into house normal;
- step from living room to patio (to water plants) steep;
- 3 steps of differing heights into side/back yard;
- small step into tatami room-potential to stub a toe = high;
- step onto top balcony where clothes line is very high;
- internal staircase very deep and narrow.
Bathrooms - most places (hotels too) have really deep bath tubs. My bathroom is on the ground floor - and it is a shower room. There is a panel for steam extraction that I haven’t worked out yet. Instead I wipe the room out and mop the floor each day and leave bathroom window open. I am not a fan of the mirror in this room, why? It runs along the wall at roughly chest to knees size.
 |
Bathroom Panels
|
Appliances. This was the steepest learning curve and some I still haven’t mastered - see bathroom above.
The microwave is a steam oven/microwave - type sold only in Japan. You must select microwave each time or the microwave won’t work. Obviously need Google translate to select which setting best. But it isn’t always clear: I don’t still don’t know what “warning - thrusting rubber” means.
The stove is easy, but it beeps until the stove top has cooled down. It talks to you -if you leave the pan on the hob when turned off - it startled me as I was on my own and was looking for who was talking to me. Never thought it was an appliance.
Air con - same as most around the world - I’ve learned I like direct cooling on me and not coooling the room. Again google translate is your friend. any ideas what Patrol means? And nope there is a direction button.
 |
Remotes for AirCon with Google Translate
|
Washing Machine - another Japanese only model - wash and dries. Apparently most washing machines here are cold water. So if you want a hot water wash - then my machine has 635 minutes on the dial.
Refrigerator - no problems but no ice maker. Daiso sells 100Yen trays - I love round ones so splurged. In the heat, I drink a lot of fluids so the trays were very handy.
Conclusion
A gf offered me an alternative housesit a few days ango and I felt ungrateful for not accepting, but I know my limitations and I would rather refuse than screw it up.
Okay I seem to have done a lot of whingeing - but it is a loverly house. And I am privileged to have this opportunity. It has opened my eyes to my shortcomings and needs. I appreciate city living and realise I am not the suburban type - I need to get out n about and look at stuff - especially art museums. Japanese museums have improved considerable since 2000s and in many over 65 means free admissions even for foreigners.
I thought I would use the time to do some writing, clean up my iPhone/ipad (yes I have a contact lists that has all emails addresses of UQ staff!), learn more about Japanese history / culture. And while I have done some, apparently I am a YouTube hoarder of to-be-watched material. I am much better at audiobooks and listen to one almost everyday.* Typing the list reminds me to seek Japanese titles. I watched a great 20 mins Nara history last night - now to finish the Kabuki, Noh and Banraku vids I have in my list to watch.
 |
Famed Kabuki Actor’s Mei A mei is a freeze for the actor to convey a variety of emotions via crossed eye. |
I am sure they are the same for most travellers.
Photos to remember my stay
*Books in August
Secret History - Donna Tartt
Yesteryear - Caro Claire Burke
Circe - Madeline Miller
Anthony Horowitz - Marble Hall Murders
John Irving - Prayer for Owen Meaney
Sally Hepworth - Mabel
Nevermoor - Jessica Townsend
The Chestnut Man - Soren Sveistrup
Troy - Stephen Fry