This blog is for those who're sick of hearing Bill andI rave about Japan. Below are places and events that we recommend. It's for the newbies. I'll update from time to time.
If you haven't been to Japan - then you're in for a treat. We have been Japanophiles since our first visit in 2000. We speak no Japanese but it's an English-friendly country.
Don't Worry that you Don't Speak Japanese
Don't be surprised by the number of Japanese who will approach you (especially in train stations if you're standing there looking a bit lost) and offer help in great English - the best thank you is a compliment - I always tell them their English is great (cos it's way better than my Japanese). They love to try their conversational English and I'm always happy to meet such kind people and be helped.
When - September -March. It's the off season cos it's less crowded. Hotels are relatively cheap. Airfares can be high-ish because of Aussie school holiday-so best to go before December 15 and return after February. Summer in Tokyo is HOT HOT HOT. Cherry Blossom Season (March) is crowded everywhere and hotels are expensive. Recommend Sapporo Ice Festival -- January / February. And check whatever else is on that you want to see/do.
Before You Go.
Buy Japan Rail tickets. Check Kabuki and Bunraku. Baseball and other sports. Also suggest Taiko drums and other festivals - beer, sake, food. This is a great website. Mario Cart - make sure you have your international driver's licence.
Money. Check your bank's foreign transaction fees. Cash is king. Withdrawal from convenience stores costs around $3 a transaction.
Flights - Jetstar, Qantas, Air Asia, Scoot. Jetstar flies from Coolangatta. Haneda is my preferred airport-it's only 20 minutes to Shibuya; Narita is further but easy too (see below).
Apps - download Google Translate this app is fantastic. It translates written text (via camera) so you can understand what's on a menu. I once ordered liver thinking it was steak. Google Maps- essential for Tokyo. Directions include subway lines, platforms even car number. Brilliant.
Kabuki schedule online--English only at Kabukiza (in Ginza). It's easy to buy tickets - get single act tickets at the theatre and don't forget the audio guide. Usually there's a matinee at 11 (cheapest) and "evening" at 4:30pm. Pretty cheap. It's fascinating, the costumes are staggering and the audio takes you through what's going on. Kids shouldn't be bored. Honestly I didn't think I'd like it but I love it and we go each visit.
Accommodation
Air BnB. Check that it is actually cheaper-hotels include all the toiletries. And beds get made and most hotels have clothes washing facilities and vending machines (beer/coffee/food/ice). Japan AirBnBs have to be registered and that's costly. The rooms might not be much bigger than hotel rooms. On the plus side all neighbourhoods are fascinating and have many quirks that make Tokyo so fascinating.
Hotels. Location, location, location - while it might be cheaper and tempting to stay further out, remember the further out you are the more expensive the train tickets so factor that into your costs. But if you have a JR Pass then travel is free. Personally we love Shibuya, Shinjuku and Akasaka (a more neighbourhood vibe). I'm not keen on Roppongi - too many night clubs and didn't offer much else, thought it has a 24-hour Donki.
Hotels in Japan have small rooms; they are also very safe so you might think about getting two rooms and ask that they be beside each other. Rooms have all toiletries you could ever need including toothbrushes/toothpaste, cotton buds, body sponges, slip on shoes; some (most?) have night attire too (usually a button up night shirt). Also most have vending machines to buy snack foods and drinks - coffee (hot, well warm anyway) and beer (200Yen a can!). But there's ALWAYS a convenience store nearby and they have everything from newspapers to alcohol, food and toiletries. I usually book through Expedia.com.au because it generally has the cheapest rates.
For families - hotels aren't always family friendly so here are a few.
B Tokyo Hotel - has linked rooms that can sleep up to 6. Akasaka area. Close to station.
APA Shinjuku- family room - often booked out.
Hotel Cloud-not sure how four people fit given the pictures but they state sleeps 4.
The Knot Tokyo - family rooms available.
Sakura Fleur Aoyama - a little quirky, slightly old fashioned, but very safe and staff are fantastic, they don't let ANYONE into the lifts(ie no house guests); you have to give key on way out and collect on way in. So super safe for children. They clean the rooms really quickly in the morning. So you have to be out of your room by a reasonable time (10-11, I think)--I love this cos it means when you get back your room is always ready. Free bottled water every day. Downstairs is a convenience store; no vending machines. Has small fridge in room. This is a very popular hotel if there's nothing on Expedia check on the hotel website
Shibuya Tobu - More expensive (about AUD40 per night more), vending machines, more traditional "hotel". 6 minutes walk uphill from Shibuya station - great neighbourhood; over the road is a Dennys if you feel like a western breakfast.
Dormy Inn - This is a Japanese chain hotel. More expensive again (about AUD70 more than Fleur). Traditional Japanese breakfast. Has bathhouse - I don't think it's worth the extra unless you want the bathhouse option.
Shinjuku
Hotel Sunroute - 1 minute from station. Make sure you know which exit. Small rooms, great breakfast. hubby loves this hotel. Good hotel staff-English is great. Great view of office block opposite; he reckons we can see into their toilet. Just kidding.
Tokyu Stay Shinjuku - 7 minutes walk from station. Great location.
Akasaka - a little further away from hustle and bustle of shopping centres above. Quaint neighbourhood with tons of eating places. There are tons of hotels in this area and many great ones. About $50 per night cheaper than Shinjuku area.
Hotel MyStays Premier - 3 minute walk from Akasaka Station Slightly larger rooms. Great vending machines; downstairs is a convenience store. Modern. Staff are great but limited English. About same price as Fleur.
Sotetsu Fresa Inn - opposite Akasaka station. Small room. Cheapest of all hotels. On main street - loads of eating places nearby.
JR Tickets - these can only be bought outside Japan. They're great if you plan on doing any train travel. They might seem expensive but they're much much cheaper than buying in Japan. Japanese trains are efficient, clean and QUIET. No one ever talks on their cell phones. Ordinary class is fine. If you're flying in from Narita then pick up tickets in the airport. Downstairs is the railway station and use it to get express train to Tokyo. Narita Express is about 4000Y return for adults and 1/2 for children. Takes about 1 hour. If you're hungry buy something (rice ball perhaps) from one of the Lawson/Family Mart shops in the airport, cheaper than the train.
If you fly into Haneda, the train takes 20 minutes. I love this airport everything is well organised and it's easy to navigate.
Buy Suica cards at the airport. Swipe and go. It is the cheapest and most convenient way to travel in Tokyo.
Below is my list of favourite things to do in no particular.
https://sakemarket.kurand.jp/en/
Ghibli Museum - you must book in advance. It is a charming museum and the short film at the start is wonderful. It will take a couple of hours but it's totally worth it and I try to visit each time we go. Open 10am til 6pm. Closed Tuesdays and in May and November for maintenance.
Directions - Mitaka station on the JR East line (about 20-30 minutes from Shinjuku station, depending on whether you get an Express or Local train), exit from the South or Minami entrance (南口), and follow the signs for the Ghibli Museum.
Odaiba - great for kids. Spend the day - visit the great science museum and digital art museum -- avoid weekends as it will be crowded. We missed the MORI art museum last time because of the long line. We'll grab it next time.
Taiko Drum Performance - Near Ginza. We bought tickets when we were there but you might want to book ahead. There's a combination ticket Robot Restaurant and Mangekyo - save 7,000Yen.
Sumo - sounds boring? But it isn't. You can visit the Sumo stables. Don't scorn the retirement ceremonies - they are great. Buy your tickets here and they will send them to your hotel. The service is excellent. Like all things Japanese, it's efficiency that makes one wonder how the rest of the world can't manage it.
Google map for Shinjuku.
Robot Restaurant - this is a dizzy, glitzy experience. The flashing lights won't be appropriate if you are light sensitive. It's great for kids - it's noisy and brash but the show we saw was family friendly. Don't get the bento box -- ours was truly ordinary, the worst food we've eaten in Tokyo and there are plenty of restaurants nearby. Tips: use the toilet; get there early so you have time to explore everything; don't buy from their online website you can get deals all over the web.
A few blocks over is --
Isetan food hall - (Shinjuku) forget Harrod's, this food hall is mega. Get there early and prepare to spend hours just looking- 10am til 8pm. Then go upstairs an marvel at the beautiful building -its an easy walk from Shinjuku Station East Exit - 3 Chome-14-1 Shinjuku.
After exploring Isetan - walk around the East Exit and try one of the small restaurants. We found a basement sushi place which was great. Food is good everywhere in Japan!
I love the area around Yoyogi Park. If you have time- get off the train at Yoyogi Hachiman and walk to the park. It's an easy stroll - takes about 10 minutes and you'll be walking through a "typical" Japanese street, we used to live near there. There's a restaurant where I used to eat spaghetti salad - yep hot spaghetti with salad added--I don't think it's there anymore. Grab a bite at the great pastry shop, Donky Boulange.
Otherwise get off at Harajuku Station. If you are there on a Sunday then look for the Elvis Dancers - Japanese fans who dress up they're usually there from 2pm. Not sure if they do it in the winter.
And visit the dog run for some crazy dog fashions. Whizz by the Meiji Shrine. Of course you should spend some time walking up Takeashita Street to see all the latest in Japanese Street fashion - though it's not as outrageous as it used to me. Treat the kids to a crepe - Sweet Box. Japanese sweets aren't as sugary as they look.
This street gets crowded really quickly so avoid weekends or get there REALLY early. And do Yoyogi Park after.
Shibuya. Yep the famous crossing. If you're there before 10am it's virtually empty so you can stop and take a photo without the crowds. Grab a cup of coffee at Starbucks (yuk) or cross the street and visit L'Occitane Cafe - much more civilised. It's upstairs. 10am til 11pm - a bit expensive ie $11 for a creme brulee but it is huge - enough for two. And how can you put a price on that view? In this picture its on the far left, above the GREEN trees.
Now for the fun part--Don Quijote. This is a multistorey cheap shop -- want some exotic flavoured Kit Kats (we bought sake/cherry blossom flavours in February and that sake is strong!). Perhaps some coloured contact lenses (non prescription) -- all on the ground floor.
Grab some Japanese hair products (they have the best shampoo and conditioners in the world--they come in foil bags so you can decant them when you get home--about $6 a litre. We get the Shiseido Tsubaki -- use sparingly and it lasts for months).
And my favourite - skincare. I can spend hours browsing the shelves looking at the latest products. And they're pretty cheap. So you'll need that extra bag -- upstairs. This is the place to get tee shirts and all your souvenirs. And the best thing? it's open 24 hours a day.
100Yen Stores (CanDo and Diaso)- of couse we have Diaso in Brissy but if you need something then this is the place to get it. The CanDo 100 Yen store is downstairs opposite Tokyu Hands. Get souvenirs there and electronic accessories such as cute phone decorations (the Japanese love these and they make great novelty gifts); we grab about 6 phone chargers and they last us for a year. Give the kids 1000 Yen each and then let them go.
Speaking of cafes - if you think the children might like it--visit one of the maid cafes. Themed places where the food is as "cute" as the french-maid dressed waitresses. There are rules - no photos and definitely no touching --but they are rules I would have thought were pertinent to ALL cafes. Still they are a novelty and one of those "weird" Japan things.
Ramen - not like the packet stuff. Order from the vending machine - often the staff will come and help you. It's easy once you get the hang of it -- mind you I ordered a whiskey instead of a tea once and the proprietor came out and explained to me, he guessed I'd made a mistake and helped me reorder. He laughed at me and it was great fun. Ramen Nagi near Sakura Fleur (2 minutes walk) has about 10 seats so you might have to wait but people eat and go so it wasn't too long. We had no idea what we ordered but it was delicious. Ichiran - chain store. great ramen.
Mandarake Shibuya - a collectables, toy, manga store. Downstairs. It's a fun place to browse if you're into Japanese comics. Might have some "adult" material.
Manga aka Japanese comics - Buy one from a convenience store and the kids can look at the pictures BUT first check that you haven't picked up an adult one so flip through. They're the size of a telephone book and often have coloured pages. Remember to start from the back. Cost about 500 Yen.
Sports-Japanese baseball is great to visit and to watch. Mainly because of the crowd and the girls with beer on their backs. They run up and down the stands with backpacks that have kegs of beer.
Disneyland - we've been told it's not that great so we've not bothered to go there.
Museums - there are tons of museums just google them. I found the historical ones not that interesting as the labels are in Japanese and they're very old fashioned. The toy museum looks good especially for kids. The only one we've enjoyed (no surprises here) is the Yebisu Beer Museum -- it was fun but wouldn't go out of my way.
Art Galleries - Japanese love European art. Love it. The galleries at Uneo Park often have great exhibits but be warned -- the lines will be long and probably expensive. Mori Art Museum in Roppongi is great and the view from the observation deck is fantastic.
Tired? stay in and watch some crazy tv shows. Try and guess what's going on.
Convenience stores have great food. We love the rice "balls". They're cheap and easy to eat -- nowadays they have in English what's inside but I suggest try any of them -- plum is great.
Of course there's lots more to do in Tokyo but this is only a beginners guide. If you have the time Hiroshima is a must (the war park is heart breaking, join some of the people there is silent remembrance); Osaka is fantastic for food and for Bunraku -- I would go there just for the puppets.
