Shopping in Japan

Yesterday I went food shopping and caught a glimpse of Japanese gone wild. I started in a crowded downtown (not local) supermarket. I bailed after 10 minutes. The till queues were so long, they clogged the aisles. So I couldn’t maneuver a trolley up/down to actually shop. I noticed that it was mainly men/women ie couples and they were retired/elderly ie over 60. Interesting aside: compulsory “corporate” retirement is 60 but it can be extended to 70. Nureochiba (wet fallen leaves) is the name given to men who shadow their wives after retirement. They do this because they have failed to develop hobbies or cultivate friendships while working. 

The men were the worst as they hogged space while spending minutes selecting an item — it was sooo frustrating, I’m a grab and leave kinda food shopper. So I opted for a supermarket over the road - less crowded and probably more expensive. They had self-service tills which are  much quicker. Why? Older Japanese people will queue 10 deep rather than use self-service tills. Which is strange.  

Japanese supermarkets have always had a self-service element. When I first visited back in 2000s, at the local supermarket the clerk rang up groceries, and then you moved to a separate table and bagged your items. Nowadays, after clerk rings your items up, you move to a pay machine to pay and then bag the groceries yourself. So it’s a kinda half-way to self-service.

Furthermore, in the basement of many ‘malls’ is a food hall - yes think Harrods. There are specialist counters where you pay directly but there are also a selection of smaller “supermarket” type places where you can buy staples and you pay there. If you don’t speak Japanese, it is confusing and my best advice is to watch and follow.  Now comes the next difficult part - payment. 

Shops take different forms of payment. A few, mainly smaller stores, still accept cash only. Most accept credit/money cards - physical cards - only. Some accept e-money.  Furthermore, there’s been a growth in the types of money aka IC (Integrated Circuit) cards. A wee while back, transport cards became easiest way to pay for travel. Such cards eg Suica (there are about 10 brands) expanded and could be waved to pay for other purchases - up to 20,000 Yen. Now there is also a digital version for phones. BUT the physical and digital are not connected ie they have different balances. Some places will only accept the physical card. 

Now shopping in general. Japan is still the bastion of the small store. So a mall is a different animal. Generally each floor of a Japanese mall has a collection of smaller shops. Clothing, food, travel companies, toys, household goods, electronics, and restaurants all nestle under the same roof. As do larger retail companies such as Muji, Daiso, Seria, 3 Coins and the like. Usually grocery/food shopping is in the basement and restaurants are on the top floor.  There are a few department stores such as Isetan. Retail giants such as Uniqlo, The Gap and GU have standalone stores but usually only in busy shopping areas such as Shinjuku. 

Finally, Don Quijote. I remember the first one I visited in Shibuya — it was a crowded, messy, noisy store whose costume and cosmetic sections on the ground floor formed a virtual Aladdin’s Cave. There was no Google translate in those so days so I made some wild purchases, but it was open early and I fell in love. 

Generally, Japanese stores don’t open until 10am - so early-riser that I am I used to wander Shibuya streets from 5am. Anyway Donki was open from early and I spent hours there.  Today many Donkis are open 24 hours and are NOT the bargain they used to be. Definitely visit one but check prices - I found suitcases are often cheaper elsewhere and price match cosmetics in drug stores. 

Shopping in Japan is fun - some recommendations. Tourists: Bring your own toothpaste, the stuff here is pretty awful. Over-the-counter pain relief is very, very mild so bring your own and must carry prescriptions if they are stronger. 100 yen stores such as Seria and Daiso (not like your one back home) be sure to visit for fun items and souvenirs: socks, umbrellas, gloves, drinks, snacks, cords for phones. Konbi (convenience stores 7/11, Family Mart, Lawson) also have smaller items such as facecloths, cosmetics etc but best for snacks, food and alcohol (cans that have a % on them are alcoholic so check carefully). 

Fashion shopping - check the smaller shops in Asakusa for leather; Uniqlo has different graphic tees, Uniqlo + GU have larger sizes but not on floor - order online - they could be delivered before you leave cos Japanese efficiency. Selvedge denim is fabulous but expensive. Sneakers here are cheap but buy Japanese made only—look for Spingle.  Second hand shopping is big, look for local markets. 

Enjoy the madness that is Japanese shopping.